TOM FORD And Zegna DTC Expansion Will Deliver Future Success

Key Takeaways

• Strategic focus on direct-to-consumer channels and geographic expansion is expected to drive long-term revenue growth and improve net margins across brands.
  
• The launch of high-end collections and planned diversification into women's and accessories collections signals potential revenue growth and improved gross margins.
  
• Ermenegildo Zegna faces revenue challenges in Greater China and a decline in Thom Browne's wholesale, with execution risks in DTC growth amid rising expenses.

Catalysts

Designs, manufactures, markets, and distributes luxury menswear, footwear, leather goods, and other accessories under the Zegna and the Thom Browne brands.

• The successful launch and market reception of the Vellus Aureum collection, particularly in regions like the Middle East, Europe, and the U.S., suggests potential revenue growth from high-end product offerings and personalization.
  
• The Tomas Maier-led TOM FORD fashion line's strong media and customer reception, alongside plans to expand women's and accessories collections, indicates potential future revenue growth and diversification, which could positively impact gross margins.
  
• The strategic focus on direct-to-consumer (DTC) channels, aimed at increasing brand control, improving gross margins, and enhancing customer experience, is expected to drive long-term revenue growth and improve net margins across the Zegna, Thom Browne, and TOM FORD brands.
  
• Geographic expansion and store openings in key markets like the U.S. and Dubai, alongside a focus on local and tourist customer bases, are expected to support sustained revenue growth and improve earnings by tapping into new consumer demographics and increasing store productivity.
  
• Continued investment in supply chain improvements, such as the completion of the Parma factory, aims to enhance product quality and operational efficiency, potentially improving net margins and supporting sustainable growth initiatives.

Ermenegildo Zegna Future Earnings and Revenue Growth

Assumptions

• Analysts are assuming Ermenegildo Zegna's revenue will grow by 4.4% annually over the next 3 years.
• Analysts assume that profit margins will increase from 4.0% today to 5.9% in 3 years time.
• Analysts expect earnings to reach €129.7 million (and earnings per share of €0.51) by about April 2028, up from €77.1 million today. However, there is a considerable amount of disagreement amongst the analysts with the most bullish expecting €151 million in earnings, and the most bearish expecting €112.0 million.
• In order for the above numbers to justify the analysts price target, the company would need to trade at a PE ratio of 23.2x on those 2028 earnings, up from 19.7x today. This future PE is greater than the current PE for the US Luxury industry at 13.4x.
• Analysts expect the number of shares outstanding to grow by 0.06% per year for the next 3 years.
• To value all of this in today's terms, we will use a discount rate of 13.55%, as per the Simply Wall St company report.

Ermenegildo Zegna Future Earnings Per Share Growth

Risks

• The company anticipates a continued challenging environment in Greater China, particularly affecting the first semester, which could lead to a negative revenue trend in this critical market. This is a risk for overall revenue growth.
  
• Thom Browne's wholesale channel is expected to continue experiencing significant declines, with a double-digit decrease forecast for 2025, which could impact overall company margins negatively if not offset by DTC growth.
  
• The increase in SG&A expenses, particularly due to investments in talent and the expansion of the store network, has raised the incidence on revenue, which could pressure net margins if revenue growth does not adequately offset these costs.
  
• Despite positive responses to high-profile fashion shows and product launches, there is an execution risk related to sustaining long-term momentum and translating media acclaim into consistent sales growth, which could affect earnings.
  
• The company's decision to streamline its wholesale business and focus on direct-to-consumer channels involves execution risks and could lead to short-term revenue fluctuations, especially if DTC growth is slower than anticipated.

Valuation

• The analysts have a consensus price target of $9.261 for Ermenegildo Zegna based on their expectations of its future earnings growth, profit margins and other risk factors. However, there is a degree of disagreement amongst analysts, with the most bullish reporting a price target of $11.13, and the most bearish reporting a price target of just $7.55.
• In order for you to agree with the analyst's consensus, you'd need to believe that by 2028, revenues will be €2.2 billion, earnings will come to €129.7 million, and it would be trading on a PE ratio of 23.2x, assuming you use a discount rate of 13.5%.
• Given the current share price of $6.86, the analyst price target of $9.26 is 25.9% higher.
• We always encourage you to reach your own conclusions though. So sense check these analyst numbers against your own assumptions and expectations based on your understanding of the business and what you believe is probable.